Bora Bora to Tonga

Cindy’s Departure – July 17th

Cindy left on July 17th for the long voyage by air back home where I’ll be joining her after I sail Quid Sea to Tonga. My plan is to leave Bora Bora in a few days when the weather window looks good. I’ve booked a flight from Tonga back home on August 7th so I need to be in Tonga a few days before that flight.

Cindy and I waiting for the ferry that will take her to the airport in Bora Bora.
Cindy waving goodbye from the ferry on her way to the airport. I’m on my own now and preparing for my upcoming solo trip to Tonga.

Day 1 – July 19th – The solo adventure begins!

I left the Bora Bora mooring at 10:00 to start my longest solo voyage yet. It’s with mixed feelings I leave Bora Bora. Leaving a lot of good cruising friends who will be following after me by about a week. Cindy and I both would like to have stayed and explored Bora Bora more but alas, our 90-day visa for French Polynesia was expiring on July 21st. I am looking forward to the “challenge” of a solo sail. I expect the 1300nm trip to take between 9 to 12 days.

I am a little concerned about the weather. A cold front is approaching Tonga from the south that will bring some heavy rain and high winds during the last part of my trip. I am using a weather router to provide guidance as well as talking with other cruisers that are out here near me (near meaning within a few hundred miles) and cruisers that are leaving Bora Bora after me. A few days before, the weather forecasting tool I use showed winds in excess of 40kts near the cold front. More recent forecasts though show the winds to be in the 30kt range which is more manageable. Hopefully, the forecast continues to improve. Based on weather models and input from my weather router, I started out on a more northerly heading to avoid the higher winds to the south and take advantage of the Edeerasterly trade winds more north.

I spent the morning before leaving getting the boat dialed in and ready for 9-12 days at sea by myself. I prepared a couple of meals ahead of time, made water, charged the batteries, and secured everything on deck and below deck. I also prepared the storm jib on the inner forestay and setup for a 3rd deep reef in my mainsail should the high winds forecast later in the voyage develop.

I exited the pass from Bora Bora about 10:30, shut off the engine, and set sail! It’s a beautiful sailing day. Clear skies and following winds in the 10-15kt range. Perfect for sailing. I’m sailing almost directly downwind so I am only using the genoa. I use the Hydrovane autopilot during the day to save power on the batteries. She is doing very well holding my course.

The difference between the Hydrovane and the electronic autopilot is that the Hydrovane is purely mechanical. The Hydrovane has a wind vane and auxiliary rudder. The direction of the wind vane is adjusted until it is pointed in the direction of the apparent wind.  When adjusted properly, the wind vane controls the auxiliary rudder and keeps the boat at a constant angle to the wind holding the vessel’s course unless the wind shifts. The electronic autopilot has a hydraulic ram that is connected to the main rudder and controlled by electronics. It has several modes of operation but essentially keeps the vessel on course through the electronics. The main advantage of the Hydrovane is to save on battery power. Another advantage is the auxiliary rudder that is part of the Hydrovane system can serve as an emergency backup rudder should the primary steering system fail.

Around 18:00 (6:30pm), after the sun set, I turned on the electronic autopilot and prepared to get some sleep. The Hydrovane requires some attention and occasional adjustment, especially if the wind direction changes. The electronic autopilot generally requires almost no attention once set. I feel safer sleeping with the electronic autopilot.

Sleeping when sailing solo is complicated. Where to sleep and for how long is a challenge. With more than 1 person onboard, someone can sleep comfortably while another keeps watch. When alone, you need to decide how long you can safely sleep without keeping a lookout or checking on sails and wind. The current conditions are steady 10-15kt winds, 3 to 5 foot seas, and no traffic. I have not seen another vessel since leaving Bora Bora. Even though I don’t see any other traffic and the wind and sea conditions are nice, I still decided to sleep in the cockpit my first night. I can quickly manage any adjustments to the autopilot. I also set my radar and AIS alarms to warn me of any vessels that appear.

Day 2 – July 20th

Conditions are pretty much unchanged in the morning. Started out mainly downwind but then the wind shifted a bit, so I was able to raise the mainsail. The weather is beautiful, good Easterly trades and clear skies. Sailing with both sails and starting to relax and enjoy the experience. The first 24 hours are usually tough on a passage whether alone or with crew. The time is spent getting the boat dialed in, establishing routine, and adjusting to being at sea again.

In the afternoon, the wind dropped to about 10kts and my SOG (Speed Over Ground) dropped to 3-4kts. I turned more southerly for the night.

Sunset on my second day. Relatively calm seas and clear skies.

I’m still sleeping in the cockpit, but I’ve figured out how to make myself more comfortable with my beanbag chair, cushions, and a pillow.

A glimpse of life in the cockpit. The big blue and white bean bag helps me get comfortable.

Day 3 – July 21st

Continued on the same southwesterly tack. The winds had picked up a bit during the previous night to 10-15kts. Making better speed today, SOG averaging 5-6kts.

Clouds starting to build and some rain way off in the distance. Still great sailing conditions.

Passed through some rain squalls later in the day. No heavy winds or lightning in the squall and Quid Sea enjoyed the freshwater washdown.

As evening settles, rain is getting closer and looking a little ominous.

Still sleeping in the cockpit. Not sure how much confidence I have to be below and sleep in the cabin.

Day 4 – July 22nd

The wind is still consistent at 10-15kts but shifting more northerly. It started out coming from the NE but through the night shifted to the N and then the NW. I’m starting to approach the zone where the weather is changing.

Slept in the cockpit again because of the shifting winds, the autopilot needed a lot of adjusting.

Day 5 – July 23rd

The wind dropped to about 7kts, and my speed was about 3kts. Winds are getting light and variable. At this point I started motor sailing. Motor sailing is using the engine as well as the sails to make headway. It also helps charge the batteries . While motor sailing, I was making about 6kts SOG. I motor sailed for a couple hours until sunset and then went back to just sailing. It’s quieter and more peaceful but slow in these light winds. I’m back to about 3kts SOG.

Sunset on Day 5. Relatively clear skies and calm seas. Very pleasant sailing.

Day 6 – July 24th

Wind dropped to less than 4kts during the early morning and the water is like glass. At this point I started motor sailing again.

Wind has died and seas are flat. Clouds and rain look to be building in the distance. This is literally the calm before the storm.

Although conditions are calm, I know the strong southerly winds are coming so I decided to put the 3rd reef in the mainsail while conditions are calm, and I have daylight. The sky is clear but there are some darker clouds on the horizon.

About 9:30PM, I was hit by the first squall. Winds picked up to about 17kts, but Quid Sea is performing solidly with the 3rd reef in the main and the genoa fully deployed, no reef.

Wind is picking up now with more clouds developing and rain very visible in the distance.

Day 7 – July 25th

By morning the winds are now coming from the SSE at about 20kts and waves are about 10ft. That is combined wind waves and swell. It’s also overcast skies now. Sailing now with 3rd reef in the main and 2nd reef in the genoa. The wind was gusting to 25kts which is why I reefed the genoa. SOG is now about 7kts. Quid Sea is doing great under these conditions. We’re heeled over about 5 degrees and rolling an additional 5-10 degrees but occasionally the waves and swell align causing us to roll 35-40 degrees. It’s getting difficult to move around a lot below deck because of these rolls. Lunch and dinner is now just sandwiches. These are the conditions that start to wear me down physically and emotionally.

Day 8 – July 26th

Wind has built to 20-25kts and seas are now 15ft. Skies are still overcast. Quid Sea is still doing well although we are taking the occasional wave over the port side. The Hydrovane is performing great even in these rough conditions.

Day 9 – July 27th/July 28th

I decided to change the ships clocks to Tonga time today which is UTC+13. I am currently on French Polynesia time which is UTC-10. What that means is I will cross the international date line and change clocks one hour earlier and one day ahead. So, 09:00am on Sunday, July 27th, changes to 08:00am on Monday, July 28th. Confusing, right?

Winds built to over 30kts today. I trimmed the genoa more to take strain off the rigging and adjusted the heading to a wind angle that keeps the wind further abeam to reduce stress on the rigging.

The AIS alarm went off about 05:00 meaning another vessel is close. A trimaran, S/V Oceans Tribute, overtook me. She passed within about 1 mile but I never did get a visual sighting. Still, it was nice to know there was another boat out here. The only one I’ve seen since leaving Bora Bora.

About 09:30, the wind dropped back down to about 20kts and the sun came out. That really helped lift spirits. The heavier seas along with overcast skies definitely wears on a person.

Day 10– July 29th

Winds built overnight and are ESE at about 25kts. I’m doing about 7.5kts SOG with a DTG (Distance To Go) of about 240nm. If I maintain this speed, I’ll arrive in Tonga around 18:00 tomorrow, July 30th. It’ll be just before sunset. I’d prefer to enter a new place in daylight, especially since the dock I must go to in Tonga for customs check-in is tricky. If I can get some more speed, I’ll try for arrival tomorrow.

Day 11– July 30th

Winds are still blowing about 25kts but have shifted more Northerly and are coming from the ENE. It’s forcing me to gybe so that I am not sailing directly downwind. Gybing is changing course when the wind is from behind so that the wind direction changes from one side of the boat to the other and the boom swings from one side to the other. In heavy winds, a gybe can be dangerous if not well controlled. If the boom swings too quickly and not well controlled it can damage rigging and gear. I gybed to a starboard tack for a while. I noticed on my gybe that the viewport on the genoa was blown out. The viewport is a circular “window” in the sail about 8 inches in diameter that lets you see the telltales on the leeward side of the sail. Not sure how it blew out but now I have an 8 inch hole in the sail. I’m a little concerned a tear could start so I gybed back to a port tack and kept the sail furled enough that the view port is not exposed.

My navigation displays showing TWS (True Wind Speed) of 38.4kts on the upper display and Boat Speed of 8.4kts on the lower display.

By the afternoon the winds had built to over 30kts, gusting to 40kts. I furled the genoa completely and now I am just sailing with the mainsail, and it is still on the 3rd reef point. I’m lucky all this wind is behind me.

Looking through the aft cockpit windows in 30-40kt winds. Conditions like this, I really appreciate the fully enclosed cockpit. I am well protected from the wind and sea spray.

As I came around to the leeward side of Vava’u Island, the wind dropped to 25kts but still gusting over 30kts. At about 19:00, I approached Faihava Passage which is the entrance to Vava’u Island. At this point the wind is blowing 25kts, it’s pouring rain, it’s dark, and I have limited visibility. On top of that, a Tsunami alert was issued for the Pacific Ocean which included Tonga. Tonga itself had not issued an alert and the bay I am heading to is well protected and really not at risk. Still, with the weather, darkness, and now a tsunami alert, I decided to stay at sea and sail around until morning to enter. Forecasts are showing the rain and winds should reduce my morning.

Day 12– July 31st

By 07:00, the winds had dropped, the rain had cleared, and the sun was up. After a long night of sailing back and forth in 15-20kt winds and 10ft seas, it seemed like heaven as I entered Faihava Passage and came into the shelter of the island and bays. I had a very uneventful sail into Neiafu and tied up at the customs dock to clear customs. It took about an hour to clear customs. By this time the wind had picked up and Quid Sea was being pushed up against the dock. With the help of several other boaters, I got Quid Sea safely off the customs dock and picked up a moorage. By 14:15 I was comfortably moored and finally able to relax and enjoy a well-deserved cocktail!

Calmer seas and skies starting to clear as I enter Faihava Passage coming into Tonga.
I’ve cleared customs and am motoring over to the mooring field in Neiafu to moor and relax after my trip.

August 1st to August 7th

The next several days involved getting Quid Sea “hauled out” and put “on the hard”. This means pulling her out of the water and storing her on land while I prepare to head home to join Cindy.

Quid Sea moored over by the Vava’u Boatyard waiting to get hauled out.

I arranged to have Quid Sea hauled out at the Fava’u BoatYard. It’s one of only a few places in Tonga where this can be done. They Fava’u BoatYard has a large hydraulic lift trailer for boat haulout. Unlike travel lifts which lift the boats out by straps, this hydraulic lift trailer is placed under the boat while in the water and listed up with underwater straps and hydraulic arms and then pulled out of the water with a tractor.

Quid Sea hauled out by the hydraulic trailer in the boatyard.
Quid Sea off the trailer and secure on stands. Her resting place for the next 6 to 8 weeks.
Me standing by Quid Sea on her stands. I stayed on Quid Sea for the 4 days between haulout and my flight home.

Quid Sea is safely tucked away on land. I left for home for a 6-8 week break to visit family and friends and take care of business items. Cindy and I will return to Quid Sea and Tonga in late September.

Quid Sea Pacific Crossing – Week 2

David continues to be very diligent with his daily updates and we are so grateful! Good news that nobody has abandoned ship and all is well with the crew.

Quid Sea Pacific Crossing 2025 – Day #8 ~ Noon, April 3-4

Captain’s Log, after day#8

VESSEL: Quid Sea
DATE: 4-Apr-2025
TIME: 1200 (GMT-7)
LATITUDE: 12° 19.0′ N
LONGITUDE: 121° 26′ W

We have reached the same longitude as The Dalles, Oregon,  on our way west to Hood River. 
COURSE: 235 T
SPEED: 6.5 kts
WIND DIRECTION: 045 T
WIND SPEED: 18 Kts
SWELL: 6-9 ft
COMMENTS: Noon to Noon distance (24hr) 139 nm. Total Distance: 1086 nm.

Dinner: What do you get when you combine bell peppers on their last legs, rice, and canned chicken? An off-the-grid gourmet masterpiece made on a stove riding the rollercoaster swells. Minimal clean-up, maximum satisfaction.

Sunset – An end to another beautiful day. 

Sunset – An end to another beautiful day.

Autopilot vs. Hydrovane

Yesterday, Hydrovane got a standing ovation. Today, we honor the autopilot. 

We were trying for a broad reach (apparent wind angle >120 degrees), but the best we were able to tune the Hydrovane to was ~110 degrees, oscillating +/- 20-30 degrees, due to rolling in the rough seas.  Anything larger and the head sail would luff in an extreme angle.

Enter the autopilot! But not the boring compass-locked version. No, this was the useful “follow the apparent wind angle” mode. Suddenly, we were smooth sailing, gliding at 130-135 degrees off the wind with far fewer tantrums from the sails. Hydrovane is taking a well-deserved break, and I am sure we will return to it when the conditions are more favorable.

Sail slides

Two of our mainsail slides decided they’d had enough and broke free. Lucky for us, Tracy was prepared with the right materials. Armed with spare slides and a sewing kit to attach them to the original webbing, he made the repairs while we were charging through 6-foot swells in 18-22 knot winds. Just another day at sea.

Quid Sea Pacific Crossing 2025 – Day #9 ~ Noon, April 4-5

Captain’s Log, after day#9

VESSEL: Quid Sea
DATE: 5-Apr-2025
TIME: 1200 (GMT-8)
LATITUDE: 11° 07′ N
LONGITUDE: 123° 40′ W

Approaching the same longitude as Astoria, OR. 
COURSE: 250 T
SPEED: 7 kts
WIND DIRECTION: 045 T
WIND SPEED: 20 Kts
SWELL: 6 ft
COMMENTS: Ship’s clocks changed from GMT-7 to GMT-8. Noon to Noon distance (25hr) 150 nm. Total Distance: 1236 nm.

We were surfing the waves and admiring the view all night long.

The moon over the Pacific

Time check

At sea, time zones shift every 15 degrees of longitude. To ease into the change, we adjust by adding 20 minutes per watch until we’re synced with the new zone. On Friday, this looked like: Tracy’s watch ran from noon–4:20PM, Erik’s from 4:20–8:40PM, and mine from 8:40PM–1:00AM. Then we reset the clock back to midnight for Tracy’s next watch. Now we’re officially one hour behind Portland—even though, longitude-wise, we haven’t crossed the Columbia River Bar. Must be the scenic route.

1923, Season 2, Episode 2, Spoiler alert!

After my watch ended at midnight, I kicked back with a dram of Scotch (prescribed by my doctor—thanks, Eddie!). I was watching a dramatic ship-crossing scene in 1923, where a massive wave crashes through a portlight window, frightening the passengers. Just as the water burst onto the screen — a real wave slammed into Quid Sea. Captain Tracy checked below for casualties (both human and snack-based). Hats off to the director, Ed Sheridan, and Captain Tracy for their perfectly choreographed special effects. 

From the helm

Today’s view.  😊

Hunting season has opened

Previously, a Red-Legged Booby used our starboard solar panel as its personal restroom, cutting power output by 40%. Cleaning it while hanging onto the boat in rolling seas? Tricky. So, when it returned today, Tracy loaded a syringe with water and mounted a defense of the ship. 

Next up: Man vs. Fruit Fly. High-voltage tennis, but with more buzz and less sportsmanship.

Quid Sea Pacific Crossing 2025 – Day #10 ~ Noon, April 4-5

Captain’s Log, after day#10

VESSEL: Quid Sea
DATE: 6-Apr-2025
TIME: 1200 (GMT-8)
LATITUDE: 09° 43′ N
LONGITUDE: 125° 45′ W

If we were in Oregon, we crossed the Columbia River bar!
COURSE: 255 T
SPEED: 8 kts
WIND DIRECTION: 055 T
WIND SPEED: 20 Kts
SWELL: 6-9 ft
COMMENTS: Noon to Noon distance (24hr) 149 nm. Total Distance: 1385 nm.

Plan: 2847nm total = 49% of the way there. 

Estimated date of arrival: April 18th.  Or 19th 😊

Dolphins at sunset

We recovered solar production to match the other.  Yay, for small victories!

Cleaning off Booby droppings off the solar panel

Quid Sea Pacific Crossing 2025 – Day #11 ~ Noon, April 6-7

Captain’s Log, after day#11

VESSEL: Quid Sea
DATE: 7-Apr-2025
TIME: 1200 (GMT-8)
LATITUDE: 08° 27′ N
LONGITUDE: 127° 56′ W
COURSE: 200 T
SPEED: 6 kts
WIND DIRECTION: 055 T
WIND SPEED: 17 Kts
SWELL: 6-9 ft
COMMENTS: Noon to Noon distance (24hr) 172 nm. Total Distance: 1557 nm.

Motoring and recharging

Turns out, autopilot, Starlink, refrigeration, and all our other gadgets have an appetite for power that outpaces our solar panels—especially on overcast days when the sun decides to ghost us. So, we fired up the engine for four hours of motoring, which allowed us to motor sail and gave the reverse osmosis watermaker a chance to shine (and fill the tanks). Redundancy: because relying on one system is for landlubbers.

Sunset Series

It looks better and better with each successive photo.

Solar Security

During my 8PM–Midnight watch, guess who came flapping back like a feathery freeloader? Yep, the red-legged booby. Once again, he tried to roost on our aft solar panel—and by “roost,” I mean settle in and then proceed to defile it.

He wasn’t phased by yelling (my sternest “Hey you!”), and a syringe full of water didn’t even make him blink. So, I upped my game: grabbed the saltwater deck wash hose and opened the floodgates. He clung on stubbornly at first—respect for the grip strength—but after a minute-long aquatic eviction notice, he finally flew off, soggy and (hopefully) reconsidering his life choices.

Twice more during my shift, he returned. Twice more, he met the wrath of Neptune’s garden hose. I felt like a member of the Night’s Watch from Game of Thrones, standing guard over the realm of clean solar panels. My watch has ended—for now.

SV Quid Sea PacVoy Sea Shanty 

We created this a few days ago but have yet to post it to YouTube.  I am sure that my family is cringing just thinking about it.  Ahh, the anticipation.  

The Ballad of the Booby and the Flying Fish
(Verse 1)
Oh, the wind was high and the seas were bold,
As we sailed through the night so dark and cold.
But when dawn arose with a golden light,
Seventeen fish gave us quite the sight!

(Chorus)
Way, hey! The ocean’s wide!
Flying fish and the rolling tide!
A booby bold in the rigging high,
Stowed away for a free ride!

(Verse 2)
Now the deck was slick with silver scales,
As the morning sun caught their shining tails.
They leapt in the night and they found no sea,
Just a wooden plank and the likes of me!

(Chorus)
Way, hey! The ocean’s wide!
Flying fish and the rolling tide!
A booby bold in the rigging high,
Stowed away for a free ride!

(Verse 3)
From the mast above came a squawk and cry,
A red-footed booby with a watchful eye.
He hitched a ride on the midnight gale,
Now he rides our ship ‘til we set new sail!

(Chorus)
Way, hey! The ocean’s wide!
Flying fish and the rolling tide!
A booby bold in the rigging high,
Stowed away for a free ride!

(Verse 4)
So we’ll let him stay for a spell or two,
For a bird like that, well, what can you do?
With the fish for breakfast and the wind so free,
There’s no better life on the endless sea!

(Final Chorus – Twice as Loud!)
Way, hey! The ocean’s wide!
Flying fish and the rolling tide!
A booby bold in the rigging high,
Stowed away for a free ride!

Fishing

Not catching, yet.

Quid Sea Pacific Crossing 2025 – Day #12 ~ Noon, April 7-8

Captain’s Log, after day#12, reported on WhatsApp, PacVoy 2025 (by invitation only)

VESSEL: Quid Sea
DATE: 8-Apr-2025
TIME: 1200 (GMT-8)
LATITUDE: 06° 26′ N
LONGITUDE: 128° 35′ W
COURSE: 200 T
SPEED: 6 kts
WIND DIRECTION: 055 T
WIND SPEED: 15 Kts
SWELL: 6 ft
COMMENTS: Noon to Noon distance (24hr) 128 nm. Total Distance: 1685 nm.

Dinner

Taco night.  Messy, but yummy.

Water Temperature

86.3 degrees F water temperature.  That seems like a nice bath or a hot tub, not the Pacific Ocean that we know in Oregon.

Fishing & Catching

We reported yesterday that we were fishing, not catching.  Our luck changed today. A small skipjack tuna.  Or as we like to describe it, dinner on the BBQ.

Quid Sea Pacific Crossing 2025 – Day #13 ~ Noon, April 9-10

Captain’s Log, after day#13

VESSEL: Quid Sea
DATE: 10-Apr-2025
TIME: 1200 (GMT-8)
LATITUDE: 02° 14′ N
LONGITUDE: 129° 28′ W

Yes, we traveled slightly east
COURSE: 214 T
SPEED: 5 kts
WIND DIRECTION: 110 T
WIND SPEED: 8 Kts
SWELL: 9 ft
COMMENTS: Noon to Noon distance (24hr) 107 nm. Total Distance: 1943 nm. 

Detoured a bit for squalls that never got too bad.  A little over 20 kts in one.  Sailed through the night reefed just in case.  Sailing now with full sails but light wind, 6-10 kts. 

Dinner

Grilled catch-of-the-day skipjack tuna fish tacos, ceviche style thanks to a suggestion from a frequent e-mail correspondent James, and a beer 😊.

Sunset

Half sunset and half a squall that we avoided.  Yes, a sunset off the STB aft quarter indicates that we were heading ~SE.  Not ideal, but the meteorologist service suggested this course out an abundance of caution.   This region is called the ITCZ (Inter Tropical Convergence Zone) and is known for unstable weather.  It seems that we will run into more of it on Monday.  In the meantime, we expect to cross the equator Friday night or Saturday morning!

Radar watch

There was a system to our SW that we avoided.  Nothing else developed overnight.

Moon Set – Credit: Erik

Sun Rise – Credit Erik

Quid Sea Pacific Crossing 2025 – Day #14 ~ Noon, April 10-11

Captain’s Log, after day#14

VESSEL: Quid Sea
DATE: 11-Apr-2025
TIME: 1200 (GMT-8)
LATITUDE: 00° 59’N

1 degree from the equator.  We should cross on Saturday morning at ~3AM local time, 4AM Pacific. 
LONGITUDE: 130° 12′ W
COURSE: 195 T
SPEED: 4 kts
WIND DIRECTION: 65 T
WIND SPEED: 8 Kts
SWELL: 6 ft
COMMENTS: Noon to Noon distance (24hr) 87 nm. Total Distance: 2030 nm. Made slow but steady progress through the night in 4-6 kt winds. Passed a pod of Pilot Whales as we crossed 1° N.

Free light show

Twice daily, until further notice. 

Red Legged Boobie

Erik successfully repelled three landings with an Acoustic Deterrent System (ARS), a.k.a., yelling.

Avoiding squalls on radar 

Also known as the Inter-Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) edition of Frogger.
We expertly navigated a clear path, dodging squalls left and right like seasoned arcade champions.

Spinnaker

The spinnaker was twisted in the sock, but eventually Tracy was able to let it fly.  Due to artistic differences with the rigging and wind conditions, we quickly returned our normally scheduled genoa. 

Whales

A pod of pilot whales at 1° N!  

I realize that this looks like an artist’s rendition of a pod of whales, painted with water colors, but it is a real photo.  The original low magnification image is below, so that you know its real, not AI. 

I’m closing out for now. We may only have another week to share before they reach the Marquesas. More to come!

The Pacific Crossing – March/April 2025

Our friends, David, and his wife Krista came to La Cruz early to spend a little more time together in Mexico before David joins Tracy for the crossing. We enjoyed a few days checking out the town and the guys were able to get an early start on provisioning the boat for their 3+ week journey.   Erik another crew member and friend, came on March 24th where they continued provisioning and taking the necessary steps to clear customs and immigration as they depart Mexico.

Tracy and David returned from their first provisioning excursion!

And they’re off! 

Tracy has officially left the shores of Mexico and is heading out to sea where he will be for about 3 and ½ weeks until he reaches the shores of Hiva Oa in the Marquesas. I will join him there at the end of April!

You’re probably wondering, how I’m able to share these trip details when I’m not on board Quid Sea for the crossing. The credit goes to David who has been providing daily updates and has been kind enough to share the highlights with me.  The following post is in his voice and David’s sense of humor makes it a very fun read. We appreciate him documenting the trip as it allows Tracy more time to focus on keeping the boat afloat and his crew safe.

Day 1:  March 27th

The journey began on March 27th, with the last hot showers in the yacht club.

Cheers to the start of the trip!

On the way to the Port Captain’s office, we cruised by to get a closer look of El Primero. Tracy recognized her as a vessel he had seen in Portland. She has a long history in the Pacific NW, including Seattle, Tacoma and Port Townsend. The story below mentions that it is headed to South America for restoration. https://megayachtnews.com/2022/12/el-primero-the-oldest-power-superyacht-in-the-world/

So far, our meals have been rather diverse. For lunch, a large salad with ham, cheese and avocado. Then for dinner, Erik and I had macaroni and cheese with tuna, while Tracy had PBP (peanut butter and pickle) sandwich. Don’t judge us. Our Hello Fresh food orders have been delayed in shipping. We need to cast a line and switch to Hello Fish.

After clearing customs and immigration with the Port Captain in Nuevo Vallarta, with a limited inspection and a friendly smile from the agents, we finally set sail, leaving the safety of the harbor behind. 

Our meals so far have been… eclectic. For lunch, we enjoyed a big salad with ham, cheese, and avocado (because we’re fancy like that). For dinner, Erik and I had macaroni and cheese with tuna, while Tracy bravely opted for a PBP (peanut butter and pickle) sandwich. Don’t judge us. Our Hello Fresh order was lost somewhere in shipment. Looks like it’s time to switch to Hello Fish—the freshest catch you can reel in yourself.

Our first sunset on the water was beautiful… though we didn’t spot the elusive green flash this time. Maybe next time.

Quid Sea Pacific Crossing 2025 – Day #2 ~ Noon, March 28-29

Tracy Myers, Captain’s Log, after day#1 & 2

VESSEL: Quid Sea
DATE: March 28 2025
TIME: 1200 GMT-7
LATITUDE: 19° 46’N
LONGITUDE: 106° 39’W
COURSE: 249T
SPEED: 6.0 kts
WIND DIRECTION: 340T
WIND SPEED: 10 kts
COMMENTS: 96 nm miles in last 24 hrs. Slow start out of Banderas Bay and light winds offshore. Decided to sail at 3 kts rather than motor.

VESSEL: Quid Sea
DATE: 29-March-2025
TIME: 1200 (GMT-7)
LATITUDE: 18° 14′ N
LONGITUDE: 108° 29.0000′ W
COURSE: 235 T
SPEED: 3.7 kts
WIND DIRECTION: 355 T
WIND SPEED: 6 Kts
SWELL: 6 ft
COMMENTS: Noon to Noon (24hr) distance 149 nm. Total Distance: 246 nm

Two heads are better than one, especially at night.  Don’t you agree?  More about this later. 

Dinner was a true culinary adventure: grilled chicken breast on the leeward port-side grill, buttermilk biscuits from the new gimbaled oven, and a romaine salad with blueberries and avocado dressing – the kind of healthy you don’t usually get on a boat, unless you’re like us, trying to balance saltwater with antioxidants. We did wonder, though, if a curious shark would swim by. But, alas, it didn’t. I’m sure that a shark was probably busy wondering if chicken really did taste like tuna. Spoiler: no takers. Dinner was safe.

Sunset, March 28th

Sailing at night

Sunrise March 29th

Stowaway Squid
Spotted on deck in the morning. Calamari for breakfast, anyone? 🦑

Two Head sails, better than one?

Tracy tried out the staysail for the first time, at the same time as flying the genoa.   Our apparent wind speed (AWS) versus true wind speed (TWS) did seem to improve. 

Back to the other head comment
SV Quid Sea is a well-equipped Norseman 447 vessel with redundancy. There’s one head in the v-berth and a second in the aft cabin – hence, two heads 😊.  Both are equipped with an enthusiastic flush powered by 12V. Don’t worry – if you’re on board and use the facilities, everyone will know of your recent activity.  But proceed with caution – there’s a breaker that trips if both heads are flushed simultaneously. 

Quid Sea Pacific Crossing 2025 – Day #3 ~ Noon, March 29-30

Captain’s Log, after day#3

VESSEL: Quid Sea
STAR DATE: 30-March-2025
TIME: 1200 (GMT-7)

This too shall change.  1hr every 15° Longitude.  => then the crew changes shift by 20min throughout the day. This wouldn’t happen if we were in the Gulf of America.  Does anyone really know what time it is?

LATITUDE: 17° 24′ N
LONGITUDE: 110° 25′ W
COURSE: 256 T
SPEED: 4 kts
WIND DIRECTION: 345 T
WIND SPEED: 6 Kts
SWELL: 6 ft at 12s
COMMENTS: Noon to Noon distance 122 nm. Total Distance: 368 nm

Our first wildlife!   It was fun watching them porpoising their way to the boat, then enjoying the bow wave. 

Dolphins playing in the bow wave!

Below is a picture of my mostly eaten dinner before I remembered to take a photo.  (You’re welcome for the artistry)  Breakfast for dinner, as an ohmage to Dexter: Original Sin, with Tabasco and ketchup.  Croissants cooked in the oven, eggs with pepper, onions and cheese, plus hashbrown-ish potatoes that fused to the pan (user error – I’m not doing that again).   

Red sky at night. 😊

Night
Dark.  
“Nights are frequently dark.”, Erik P.

Close encounter

Our Closest Point of Approach (CPA), of any ship so far, was with a 179 m Liberian vessel, BBC ...  Tracy was on watch, and they passed aft of us at around 2AM, 2 NM out. 

https://www.vesselfinder.com/vessels/details/9947768

Sailing at night!

Sunrise.
There was never a night or a problem that could defeat sunrise or hope.
Bernard Williams

We had a couple of sea birds taking refuge (and enthusiastically soiling) the solar panels this morning.

Stowaways!

Quid Sea Pacific Crossing 2025 – Day #4 ~ Noon, March 30-31

Captain’s Log, after day#4

VESSEL: Quid Sea
DATE: 30-March-2025
TIME: 1200 (GMT-7)
LATITUDE: 17° 24′ N
LONGITUDE: 110° 25′ W
COURSE: 256 T
SPEED: 4 kts
WIND DIRECTION: 345 T
WIND SPEED: 6 Kts
SWELL: 6 ft at 12s
COMMENTS: Noon to Noon distance 122 nm. Total Distance: 368 nm

Adventure in cooking

On the menu was pork chops on the grill, risotto pasta with mushrooms, and green beans. The conditions, however, were a bit too sporty for the grill, so all the cooking was done in the galley.  Tracy did the prep work, chopping the beans, onions and bell peppers that were on their last legs.

Cooking in 15-18 kt winds while close-hauled at a 45-degree apparent wind angle, causing the boat to heel and roll 10 to 20-degrees? Oh, it’s not just cooking — it’s an adventure!  It is a full contact sport versus any solid surface, complete with sharp knives, open flames, boiling water, hot oil and a gimballed stove as the moving target.

I walked away unscathed, which I consider a victory. If you look closely, you might spot anchoring points for a cooking harness. Maybe next time I’ll use them. This time, I rode the galley bareback. Yeehaw.

In all seriousness, I never felt in danger. It’s just a matter of bracing yourself, going with the motion of the boat, and hoping the pasta doesn’t burn.

Dinner

Half-eaten dinner, successfully restrained with a strategically placed knife to prevent it from escaping across the deck.

Sunset

A stunning sunset, accompanied by a waning crescent moon and a deceptively calm looking sea.

Time Zone

We transitioned to Pacific Time Zone, UTC -8, by adding an extra 20 minutes to each evening watch.  One clock is on UTC and the other is on Pacific.

Passive fishing

Squid on-deck in the morning. Yum!

Yes James, we caught fish today!  Please send an appropriately sized filleting scalpel.

Quid Sea Pacific Crossing 2025 – Day #5 ~ Noon, March 31- April 1

Captain’s Log, after day#5

VESSEL: Quid Sea
DATE: 1-Apr-2025
TIME: 1200 (GMT-7)
LATITUDE: 15° 28′ N
LONGITUDE: 115° 13′ W
COURSE: 245 T
SPEED: 6 kts
WIND DIRECTION: 030 T
WIND SPEED: 10 Kts
SWELL: 6 ft
COMMENTS: Noon to Noon distance (24hr) 142 nm. Total Distance: 666 nm.

April 1st, quotable quotes for the day:

Tracy: “I wish I had a catamaran”, “Only 28 more days until land.”

Erik: “Buy stock in Tesla, it’s a steal!”

David: “I shouldn’t have eaten that flying fish.”

Photos for the day:

Sunset

So, tell me, who noticed that I said that the moon was waning when it’s really waxing??  My apologies.  It seems that the phases of the moon look different here. I am used to a quick reference that if the crescent fits neatly in your left thumb and index finger that the moon is waning.  Perhaps it looks different near the equator? More research is needed.  

Catch of the day

I thought that they said frying fish, but it turns out that this is a flying fish.   I hope that we catch something better soon.

Hitchhiker

Tracy did a google search of the image and it turns out to be a Red-Footed Booby sitting on the solar panel. 

Quid Sea Pacific Crossing 2025 – Day #6 ~ Noon, April 1-2

Captain’s Log, after day#6

VESSEL: Quid Sea
DATE: 2-Apr-2025
TIME: 1200 (GMT-7)
LATITUDE: °14 ’39 N
LONGITUDE: 117° 40′ W
COURSE: 245 T
SPEED: 6 kts
WIND DIRECTION: 030 T
WIND SPEED: 13 Kts
SWELL: 6 ft
COMMENTS: Noon to Noon distance (24hr) 151 nm. Total Distance: 817 nm.

An evening adventure

What were you doing at 8-10PM PT on April 1st?   Locally, the winds climbed to 20 kts, necessitating us (Tracy) reefing the genoa and the mainsail. There was some spray, which activated the emergency beacon on Tracy’s PFD.  The flashing strobe added to the ambiance.  When he was dropping the mainsail, it was getting caught in the lazy jack lines, used to guide the sail into the stack pack.  We have come up with strategies to simplify the process next time. 

Dinner

A simple affair – Ham & cheese sandwiches to minimize the threat of hot and sharp kitchen objects.  The food wasn’t photo worthy, but the dinner bell is fun! 😉

Solar panel cleaning

The red-footed booby soiled one of the solar panels, reducing the power output to only 50%.  Cleaning has only improved the output 60%.  Yes, it is cloudy, but the output is compared to an identical panel adjacent to it.  Odd.  

Quid Sea Pacific Crossing 2025 – Day #7 ~ Noon, April 2-3

Captain’s Log, after day#7

VESSEL: Quid Sea
DATE: 3-Apr-2025
TIME: 1200 (GMT-7)
LATITUDE: °13 ’35 N
LONGITUDE: 119° 30′ W

Fun fact, this is ~ the same longitude as Hermiston, OR. 😊
COURSE: 250 T
SPEED: 6 kts
WIND DIRECTION: 045 T
WIND SPEED: 13 Kts
SWELL: 6 ft
COMMENTS: Noon to Noon distance (24hr) 130 nm. Total Distance: 947 nm. 

=  ~33% complete!

And the award for the crew member with the most stamina goes to…

Hydrovane! (Cue thunderous applause 🎉)
The Hydrovane is our tireless, unsung hero. A small sail and rudder attached to the stern, it corrects our course 24/7, without food, sleep, or even a complaint.  Befriend the Hydrovane, or risk the wrath of a luffing sail—or worse, an unintentional jibe, which is basically sailing’s version of an unexpected slap to the face. Even the resident boobie bird seems to respect its work ethic.

Sunset

Another dazzling nature show, featuring the Pacific Ocean, the sky, and increasing wind. The boat was heeling over in a 20-knot wind, which means our camera angle was… artistic.

Dinner

Tracy graciously cooked and cleaned up after dinner. The menu? Spaghetti with what I think was red sauce. It looked red in the glow of my headlamp, so I’m going with it. Delicious, regardless. Also, the garlic shaker’s lid was a little loose, and right as I was seasoning, a swell hit. The result? Let’s just say no vampire bat will be coming within a nautical mile of me.

Moon over the Pacific

It is hard to get a good photo, but this should give you a good general idea.  Capturing a good moon photo at sea is like trying to take a selfie in a hurricane. But trust me, it was there. Currently, we’re at first quarter. Can’t wait for the full moon. Question: Will our excessive garlic usage protect from werewolves too? Asking for a friend.

Jibing in the night

(Which, honestly, sounds like a great song title.)
Sailing directly downwind is a bit of a puzzle. The dream setup would be a spinnaker, but the wind is a little too… enthusiastic for that. Next best option? Wing-on-wing. Unfortunately, in 6-ft swells, that’s not stable and could result in a big mistake.  So, jibing it is. Shortly after midnight, we switched to a portside tack for the first time since leaving Mexico. Doesn’t sound dramatic, but to Erik—who had been sleeping on the starboard side—it meant not being launched across the cabin like a pickleball. Small victories. “Jibe ho!”

17 flying fish on deck(Also a great song title.)
The flying fish are getting bigger and more ambitious. One particularly athletic individual managed to hurl itself straight into our isinglass window before crash-landing on deck. Every morning, Erik embarks on a solemn mission to return our overnight visitors to Neptune. Today’s count: 17 volunteers.

That’s all for now. Thanks David! There’s more to come and I will send out another update later this week. On a side note, I’m able to talk to Tracy most days. He sounds happy, a little sleep deprived and thrilled that Quid Sea is performing well. Both Erik and David are doing well too. They don’t have any regrets so far. 🙂