auckland – SV Quid Sea – Sailing with Tracy and Cindy

New Zealand Part 2 – Northland Region.

Kia ora and Happy New Year from New Zealand!

After our friends and crew left, we started to explore some surrounding areas on the North Island. The closest town is called Paihia and we were told about a great 5-mile walk along the shoreline that eventually leads you to town. Paihia is a charming and popular summer spot for Kiwi’s. It’s a bit touristy with lots of shops and restaurants. We were hungry after the long walk and enjoyed lunch and some homemade fudge from one of the shops. We chose to opt for a cab instead of walking 5 miles back. Our conclusion is we’re glad to have this lovely town nearby and know we will be back!

our path along the shore on our way to Paihai. As you can see this a big fallen tree!

This picture reminds me of hiking in Oregon or Washington.

Interesting details about Paihia:

The town is famously known as the location where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840, a pivotal event in New Zealand’s history.
In the 1820s, missionaries Henry and William Williams established one of the earliest mission stations in Aotearoa (New Zealand) in Paihia.
The missionaries built New Zealand’s first church here.
The mission also set up New Zealand’s first printing press in 1835, which was used to print Bibles and, later, copies of the Treaty of Waitangi in Māori.

The population of Paihia was 1,623 in 2023. The town is a popular tourist destination, and its population swells significantly with visitors, especially during the summer months.

Another nearby town is Russell, smaller than Paihia but very picturesque. You can take a pedestrian/car ferry from Opua or Paihia. We drove over in our rented vehicle to explore more of the island. It’s a great spot and we highly recommend seeing Paihia and Russell, if ever in the area.

Interesting details about Russel

Russell, originally called Kororāreka, was New Zealand’s first European settlement and capital before the capital moved to Auckland in 1841. Since 1865, the capital has been Wellington. It was once known as the “Hell Hole of the Pacific” due to its reputation as a lawless whaling and trading port, but it is now a tranquil resort town known for its history, charming streets, and as a base for exploring the Bay of Islands.

Today, Russell is a charming resort town with a relaxed atmosphere, frequented by tourists. It is also a popular hub for game fishing, with fleets departing to catch marlin, tuna, and shark. Russell had a population of 798 as of the 2023 New Zealand census.

This photo and two above are from a hike with views of Russell.

This sign is from a coffee shop in Russell called Hellhole.

We were surprised to see this sign but that does appear to be a common theme throughout the Island.

Another adventure included a drive to Cape Reinga, the northern most point of New Zealand. It was about a 3-and-a-half-hour drive from the marina. We stopped in Manganui for breakfast and again for dinner on our way back. Supposedly they have the ‘best’ fish and chips in New Zealand. We were later told by our cab driver that the ‘best’ rating was established 20 years ago and since then they have changed owners, and they are not as good as they used to be. Since it was the only place in town, we tried it, and it was very good but pricey. We think the publicity from 20 years ago is still paying off, hence the high cost.

A second tip from our cab driver Wayne included stopping at Gum Diggers Park in Northland. The story begins 220 million years ago when the Agathis family of evergreen trees (Kauri) first appeared on the earth in the time of the dinosaurs (Cretaceous Era). After the breakup of the great continent Gondwanaland, the sub species Agathis Australis were confined to an area which became Northern New Zealand. They do not grow naturally anywhere else in the world. Kauri Gum is the fossilized resin or sap of the Kauri Tree. The age of the gum can vary significantly – anywhere from a few hundred years old to many hundreds of thousands of years old. Some Kauri Gum found in the Otago in the South Island has been estimated by scientists to be over 175 million years old and is Amber. Most of the Kauri Gum found on the Gum Diggers Park site is between 46,000 -150,000 years old.

Although used for generations by the Māori people (they used it as chewing gum, for lighting fires and tattooing) the Kauri Gum industry had its beginnings in 1814 when a trial shipment was sent to London by early European pioneers who were keen to export products back to their homeland. The gum soon became prized in making high quality varnish.

The gum diggers would target their excavations around the bases and crowns of the trees. The timber wasn’t important to them and was often burnt for firewood. The influx of “gum diggers” to the Auckland and Northland areas from about 1830 provided the basis for one of our largest ever export industries earning New Zealand even more revenue than farming in the early 1900s.

Between 1850 and 1950 over 450,000 tons of Kauri Gum, worth 25 million pounds, had been exported to manufacturer varnish. Unfortunately, most of the Kauri gum was exported overseas, mainly to Britain but also to Australia and the USA. Very little remains in this country and there is probably almost none remaining in the ground.

Today the Kauri trees are limited to a few reserves, and they are now absolutely protected. These majestic trees are now attracting many visitors to the natural forest areas and have brought a new awareness about the need for conservation – not only for the Kauri but for all our native treasures.

Old Karau wood – this picture and one above

We noticed lots of sheep grazing on the hillsides during our drive. In trying to get a better understanding around the size of sheep farming, I learned it is a significant industry in New Zealand. According to 2007 figures reported by the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) of the United Nations, there are 39 million sheep in the country (a count of about 10 per human). The country has the highest density of sheep per unit area in the world. For 130 years, sheep farming was the country’s most important agricultural industry, but it was overtaken by dairy farming in 1987. Sheep numbers peaked in New Zealand in 1982 to 70 million but have dropped to about 24.4 million as of June 2023. There are 16,000 sheep and beef farms in the country which has made the country the world’s largest exporter of lambs, with 24 million finished lambs recorded every year.

As we were getting close to Cape Reinga the weather changed and heavy fog started coming in. Unfortunately, it covered most of our view but we did manage to get a couple of pictures before we lost visibility.

Cape Reinga is generally considered the separation marker between the Tasman Sea to the west and the Pacific Ocean to the east. From the lighthouse it is possible to watch the tidal race, as the two seas clash to create unsettled waters just off the coast.

It is a popular tourist site, with annual visitor numbers estimated at over 500,000 people. Visitor numbers are growing by about five percent a year, and the increase is likely to become even more now that the road to the cape is fully sealed.

According to mythology, the spirits of the dead travel to Cape Reinga on their journey to the afterlife to leap off the headland and climb the roots of the 800-year-old Pohutukawa tree and descend to the underworld to return to their traditional homeland of Hawaki, using the Te Ara Wairua, the ‘Spirits pathway’. At Cape Reinga they depart the mainland. They turn briefly at the Three Kings Island for one last look back towards the land, then continue their journey.

Views from the top of Cape Reinga as the fog is rolling in.

It was also a goal of ours to go cruising for few days around the Bay of Islands. It’s famous for it’s sailing and wonderful anchorages. On November 16, we sailed to Mangahawea Bay. It’s one of New Zealand’s earliest known Polynesian settlement sites, showing adaptation by explorers arriving from Polynesia centuries ago. Excavations have uncovered rich layers of cultural history, providing insights into the lives of early Māori.

When we arrived at this Bay, the Hawaiian voyaging canoes Hōkūleʻa and Hikianalia were visiting Mangahawea Bay. We discovered they were here primarily to commemorate the 40th anniversary of Hokulea’s historic first landfall in 1985, strengthening cultural ties with Maori, honoring ancestral voyaging, and engaging communities in sustainability and stewardship before wintering in New Zealand. The journey also served to train new navigators and leaders for the future of Polynesian voyaging, continuing the mission to explore, understand, and care for the Pacific.

Holulea’s boat from Hawaii commemorating 40th anniversary

We arrived to crowds on the beach celebrating the 40th anniversay.

The five pictures above are from Mangahawea Bay as we hiked around the island.

Next, we anchored near Roberton Island for 2 nights. It’s the same island we went to for our Tall Ship tour in late October aboard the R. Tucker Thompson. The Island has a short hike with gorgeous views that we enjoyed hiking again. We were also privileged to see an amazing dolphin show as they swam around our boat and others in the bay for a good 10 minutes.

R. Tucker Thompson at anchor off Roberton Island. We came here previously on the R. Tucker Thompson so it was great to see her here again, especially with the “Dolphin Show”.

Motuarohia (Roberton Island) has been inhabited by Māori since early Polynesian settlement, with evidence of gardens and fortifications. Captain Cook landed there in 1769 and named the region the Bay of Islands. In 1839, the island was renamed after John Roberton, who later died in a boating accident, leaving his wife Elizabeth to manage the island. After passing through several owners in the 19th century, the island became a scenic and wildlife reserve by the 1950s. It was placed under government care in 1979 and is now a popular Bay of Islands tourist destination.

Two pictures from our hike on Roberton Island.

Our last night at anchor was in Otaio Bay, also known as Entico Bay. It’s a beautiful, secluded bay where the water is crystal clear and blue. It was a fun surprise to see the R. Tucker Thompson tall ship in the bay when we arrived. We enjoyed exploring this Island with longer hikes and lovely views.

We noticed several trees filled with Cormorants. This photo has a nest with babies.

I found this picture on the internet to give you a better idea of what a Cormorant looks like

View leaving the bay and heading back to the Bay of Islands marina.

We were invited to a community dinner in Paihia by Kathy, our Kiwi friend, who gave me a ride from the bus stop. Everyone brought a dish to share and your own drinks if desired. There were several folks who were 1st and 2nd generational New Zealanders and one who was 6th generation. It was a nice evening with good conversation and lots of laughter.

Kathy from Wisconsin is the person with her hand up.

The woman wearing a purple sweatshirt is a 6th generation Kiwi!

Another must see in New Zealand is the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. The Waitangi Treaty Grounds in the Bay of Islands are one of the most important historical sites in New Zealand because its where the Treaty of Waitangi was first signed in 1840, marking the country’s founding as a modern nation. The site is closely connected to key events before the treaty, including the residence of James Busby, the adoption of New Zealand’s first national flag, and the signing of the Declaration of Independence. Today, Waitangi remains a place of national commemoration and reflection on New Zealand’s identity.

After the tour we headed to the cultural show for more education and entertainment. Our guide asked the audience if anyone would be interested in role playing a ‘Chief’ representing Great Britain. After a bit of silence, Tracy volunteered! The Chief of the Māori tribe gave him a peace offering along with a speech to welcome him. In return, acting as Britain’s chief, Tracy also gave a speech to the Chief and tribe. These rituals were done to establish prestige and authority, acknowledge their purpose and create a spiritual connection. It was interesting and educational with a bit of humor watching Tracy act out his role. The music and dancing was beautiful and felt authentic.

These are the flags of New Zealand that they have had since 1834. The top flag is the New Zealand flag. The lower left flag is the flag of the United Tribes of New Zealand and the lower right flag is the Union Flag representing England which has not flown over New Zealand since 1902.

Fun photos with Tracy posing as the Chief!

Tracy and I posing with some of the warriors and dancers from the show.

Kawiti Glow Worm Caves

We visited the Kawiti Glow worm cave in the Waiomio Valley near Kawakaw in the Northland region of the North Island. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures inside the cave because it is considered sacred but we captured some photos around the grounds.

Glow worm caves are natural (or sometimes purpose-built) underground formations, famous in New Zealand and Australia, where thousands of bioluminescent glowworm larvae create a magical, starry night effect on cave ceilings. These tiny creatures, Arachnocampa luminosa, hang sticky threads to catch insects, and their collective blue-green light illuminates the dark, damp caves, offering a beautiful, underground spectacle.

I pulled this photo off their website to give you some perspective of the cave’s size.

Tw0 photos above are from the grounds outside the cave.

Last, we visited Haruru Falls, a 16-foot waterfall located near the settlement of Haruru in the Far North District of New Zealand. See photos below.

In the Māori language the word haruru means ‘continuous noise or roar’. The lagoon on the downstream side of the falls was New Zealand’s first river port, used by both Māori and early missionaries.

New Zealand!

I arrived in Auckland, New Zealand, on October 17^th from Tonga. I spent 10 days in the Parnell neighborhood near downtown Auckland while waiting for Tracy and crew to arrive on Quid Sea. We’re both grateful we have found a way to share this adventure that works for both of us.

I love this area in Auckland, as it’s very walkable with shops, restaurants, cafes and groceries. It’s near the airport and I highly recommend it if you plan to visit Auckland. I toured the War Memorial Museum, Domain Winter Gardens, and walked the path to Mt. Eden volcano. Our Kiwi cruising friends connected me with their neighbor Fritha and we met up for drinks one night and she invited me to her home for a Lamb roast another night. Lamb is a popular New Zealand dish, and it was delicious. Fritha was excellent company and a very gracious host. I hope to see her again while in New Zealand.

My first breakfast in New Zealand. Yummy!

Pictures above from the Domain Wintergarden in Auckland

Selfie of Fritha and me after our dinner together.

Fun Facts about Auckland:

1. You can walk from one ocean to another – in just four hours. Auckland is one of the few cities in the world where you can cross from the Pacific Ocean to the Tasman Sea on foot. The Coast to Coast Walkway spans 16 kilometers and takes you through volcanic cones, native bush, and quiet neighborhoods. It’s a peaceful and scenic way to see both sides of the city – and tick off a rare travel achievement.

2. Auckland is built on more than 50 volcanoes. Don’t worry – they’re all dormant. But Auckland’s volcanic field has shaped everything from its rolling hills to its iconic lookouts. Mount Eden and One Tree Hill offer some of the best panoramic views over the city and harbor. For geology lovers, this is a rare chance to see a city designed by fire.

3. It’s rightfully called the ‘City of Sails’. With more boats per capita than anywhere else in the world, Auckland embraces life on the water. Its twin harbors – Waitematā and Manukau – make it a dream for sailing, and you’ll spot yachts dotting the horizon at almost every turn. Harbor cruises, sunset sails, or even just a stroll along the marina show why Auckland has earned its nautical nickname.

4. It’s home to the world’s largest Polynesia population. Auckland is proudly multicultural, and around 28% of its population identifies as Polynesian. Their influence is felt in the music, markets, and festivals that color the city throughout the year. Don’t miss the Pasifika Festival, held annually in Western Springs – it’s a joyful celebration of Pacific Island heritage, with traditional performances, street food, and art.

5. The Māori name for Auckland means ‘a place desired by many’.Auckland’s Māori name, Tāmaki Makaurau, translates to “Tāmaki with a hundred lovers” – a poetic nod to its lush lands and strategic harbours. For centuries, this fertile region was a sought-after home for Māori iwi (tribes), and their rich legacy continues through art, storytelling, and place names all around the city.

6. Auckland consistently ranks among the world’s most liveable cities. With its mild climate, excellent public services, and easy access to nature, Auckland consistently ranks among the top tiers of global liveability indexes. It’s a city where you can hike a volcano in the morning, relax at a winery in the afternoon, and dine on world-class cuisine by evening – all without leaving the metro area.

7. It was New Zealand’s capital city – but only for 25 years. Auckland held the title of capital between 1842 and 1865, before the government relocated to Wellington for geographical balance. But Auckland has grown far beyond its brief political past – today it’s the country’s largest and most international city, known for its business hub, arts scene and natural wonders.

8. Famous Kiwis call Auckland home. This city has nurtured some of New Zealand’s most notable figures. Sir Edmund Hillary, who conquered Everest, grew up here. So did pop sensation Lorde, who made global waves with her chart-topping debut. And Helen Clark, former Prime Minister and UN leader, also hails from Auckland. It’s a place that quietly shapes world-changers.

9. Auckland is the backdrop to New Zealand’s longest-running soap. If you’re curious about everyday Kiwi culture, Shortland Street is a prime-time TV staple – filmed on the North Shore and beloved since 1992. It may be fiction, but it offers insight into modern urban life in New Zealand, with a dash of melodrama. Better yet, the popular TV show One Tree Hill was directly named after Maungakiekie – ’One Tree Hill’, a volcanic cone in Auckland.

10. It’s a city where nature and city life live side by side. One moment you’re exploring designer shops and art galleries, the next you’re picnicking beside a volcanic crater or cruising past dolphins in the Hauraki Gulf. This balance of city and serenity is what keeps Auckland so special – and so endlessly explorable.

Last, As of November 2025, Auckland’s population is estimated to be around 1.71 million, while New Zealand’s total population is approximately 5.34 million. This means about one-third of New Zealand’s population lives in the Auckland Region.

I left Auckland on October 26^th and took the bus north to Opua. I needed to get to Bay of Islands Marina where I will meet up with Tracy once he arrives. I was dropped off on the side of the road in the middle of what seemed to be nowhere! My phone didn’t have very good service and was challenging to find directions. While I was deciding what to do and trying not to panic, a women in a car arrived to pick up another bus passenger and asked if I needed a ride. I told her where I was going and she said, “hop in, it’s on the way.”

It turns out the other person she picked up is a WWOOFer from China (I don’t recall where). He is here to help Cathy do some work on their property for a week. A “WWOOFer” on a farm is a volunteer who participates in the WWOOF (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms) program, which is a global network connecting volunteers with organic farmers. In exchange for a few hours of daily work (typically 4-6 hours) on the farm, WWOOFer’s receive free food and accommodation. This is a non-monetary exchange focused on education and cultural experience, allowing WWOOFer’s to learn about organic farming and sustainable living from their hosts.

Another fun detail is Cathy is from Green Bay Wisconsin. This is not too far from where I lived until I was in my early 20’s and still have family in the area. We exchanged contact information, and she invited us over for dinner once we settled. Before leaving, she helped me locate my Airbnb and dropped me at Opua’s General Store. It was a great place to hang out and have lunch until I could check in the Airbnb, a short walk away.

Two views from the bus ride, Auckland to Opua

My first night in Opua I met up with sailing vessels Terrapin (US) and Walk About (Netherlands). Walk About had arrived earlier that day and it’s a tradition for them to celebrate each passage with some bubbles!

Because I arrived early to Opua, I rented an Airbnb overlooking the marina so I would be in the immediate area when Quid Sea sailed in to the harbor. The place was big enough for Tracy and crew because I heard they were excited to get off the boat, enjoy a hot shower and get a full night’s sleep. Good news, they arrived safely around 9:00 PM on Monday, October 27^th in very strong winds. Because it was late they had to stay on the Quarantine Dock until customs could check them in sometime in the morning. I wasn’t able to enter the dock and could only wave to them from a distance. By noon next day, everyone was off the boat and settling into the Airbnb. Yay!

View from the Airbnb in the Bay of Islands Marina

That night (Tuesday), we had a party for about 17 other cruising friends who had arrived a few days earlier or same day as Tracy. They were from 7 different boats originating from US, Sweden, Netherlands, Canada, England, and New Zealand. These are boats we have been traveling with since Mexico which was about a year ago. We didn’t see them at every stop but on and off throughout our passages. It was quite a celebration to finally arrive in New Zealand!

We left our lovely apartment and moved back on the boat on Friday, October 31^st. Tracy’s cousin Tim left for home and Peter stayed on for a few more days.

With many of our cruising friends still here with us, we joined them for dinners and touring around the area. We visited Omata Winery on Friday, October 30^th, a boutique winery specializing in Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Rose and Syrah’s. They also offer lunch with their wine tastings, and we enjoyed their wood-fired pizza’s. The wine was good and the company even better! I highly recommend this winery, not just for the wine and food but also for its beautiful views and setting.

Pictures from the Omata winery in Russell New Zealand.

On Saturday we went on a tour aboard a ship called R. Tucker Thompson. We can’t seem to stay away from boats! This magnificent traditional tall ship is a dedicated non-profit, committed to transforming the lives of Northland’s young people. Every dollar they collect from tourists like us directly funds their life-changing, 7-day youth voyages. R. Tucker Thompson runs Youth Development Voyages for young people aged 14-18 from Taitokerau Northland. These voyages are designed to build confidence, teamwork, and leadership. Trainees learn traditional sailing skills and explore the Bay of Islands, empowering them with transferable skills and a sense of belonging.

The trip for visitors includes hands-on sailing for anyone who wants to be more involved. We helped raise the sails, I climbed the rigging and Peter and Tracy steered the boat for a bit. Peter also jumped in the water on a rope swing and swam back to the boat! It was a great trip where we were also able to go ashore for a hike, enjoyed tea and scones for breakfast as well as a wonderful lunch spread.

Peter and Tracy getting ready to board the R. Tucker Thompson

Tracy helping to raise one of the sails.

Connor is delivering our breakfast of scones with clotted cream and hot tea. So tasty!

Peter anxiously waiting his turn to take the helm!

We hiked to the top of Roberton Island and were rewarded with wonderful views.

We’ve been here about a week and Peter has left us and most of our cruising friends have moved on too. We are feeling a bit lonely but also glad to have some quiet time. We plan to spend the next few weeks exploring the area around Opua and getting some boat repairs done.

Our expectations were quite high in terms of finally getting to New Zealand. Fortunately, it did not disappoint. We loved it from day one and can’t wait to explore more of the Islands during our six month stay here!